19 Oct, 2018

Day 4 – Tengboche Monastery

Written by: Russ

South Downs Way





Elevation gain:


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Day 4 route overview

The longest distance you’ll walk on the Everest Base Camp trek is on day 4 where you walk from Namche Bazaar to Pangboche further up the Khumbu Valley. Stopping off to admire the Tengboche Monastery on the route and stop for a break at the café there to recharge.


A steady and rather flat hike along the side of the valley leads you to a false sense of security. After about 3 miles you descend into the valley, cross a suspension bridge and start your way up another long ascent filled with switchbacks all the way to Tengboche.

Over the M3

Goodbye Namche Bazaar

Namche was a fantastic place and was the last large settlement we enjoyed which had a hospital, market and ATM. From here on out the villages would get increasingly smaller, the climate would get increasingly colder and the landscape, flora and fauna would begin to change quickly as we began to leave the timberline.

That morning, we left earlier than all the other hikers at around 6am because the next stop, Pangboche has limited accommodation and we wanted to get there before the rush of hikers going up and coming down from Dingboche.


Over the M3
Over the M3
Over the M3

The way to Tengboche

We passed many stupas on the route which were interesting to take photos of, there was also a gentleman waiting for those heading to Base Camp to ask them for donations for trail maintenance. The further we went, the taller the peaks got and the more baron the landscape seemed to look.

We quickly descended again, after all that elevation gain I felt like we were making progress, but that long steady descent to the river, only to cross a suspension bridge to begin yet another long, hot, arduous and difficult ascent to Tengboche. Baby steps again, slowly inching my way along the trail and around the switchbacks. It was so tough, but the views were the reward. Every time I’d stop and rest I was blessed with the most incredible and awe-inspiring views. The mountain tops were covered in snow and ice, but just peaking through the dusty haze which hung in the cool breeze.

Over the M3
Over the M3

Tengboche Monastery

Once at the top of the steep ascent, we were greeted by friendly folk from the village of Tengboche and ushered into a café for some lunch. This café would turn out to be where I’d stay for a night on the way back to Lukla. After lunch we took a look at the huge monastery which seemed to be completely deserted. Photography wasn’t allowed in the monastery, but upon entry, it was filled with the most ornate and beautiful statues, ornaments, furniture and decoration I’d ever seen in any monastery.

Over the M3
Over the M3

We made it to Pangboche

Upon arrival to Pangboche the clouds rolled in once again and the entire village was shrouded in a thick mist making everything seem eery and quiet. After dropping off our kit and having a meal I decided to explore the village and as I turned a corner, two stallions began fighting and making noise. Then a local proceeded to throw a huge rock at the horses to make them move! It worked, however, the method he used wouldn’t have been very accepted back home! Interesting.

The highlight of the evening? Sipping on some expensive, yet very tasty Nepalese rum. This, it turns out, would become a bit of a thing.

Over the M3
Over the M3
Over the M3
Over the M3



  • Views and vista 80% 80%
  • Difficulty 80% 80%
  • Elevation gain 80% 80%

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